OEM Plus Land Cruiser
For Sale
Pre-purchase inspections encouraged.
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Cold Start up
Underbody Drive Over
Overview
This truck is best described as OEM plus. It’s in very good shape inside and out and is mechanically excellent. That said, it is not “perfect” - see photos. I’ve never done any hard wheeling, it’s just not my thing. I have used this truck extensively on forest service roads, etc. . .
- No lockers (center lock diff switch installed)
- No rust
- D light works
This truck was a theft recovery in 2002 and has a rebuilt title. I’ve never had a problem carrying full coverage with State Farm. I currently have a stated value policy with Hagertys.
Mechanical
This truck is pretty much stock and I’ve always used OEM parts unless otherwise noted.
Mechanically it’s been great, the motor runs well and has the traditional sewing machine idle sound. When I did the valve cover gasket I was really pleased with how everything looked internally.
The drivetrain is solid. Complete knuckle rebuild recently.
Interestingly, I get 14 mpg on the highway if I stay at 70 mph. AC is cold and the heat is hot.
I did have a tranny issue that I resolved. The tranny would begin making strange/erratic shifts. Although I had already replaced the solenoids, I swapped out a new set just to be 100% sure it wasn’ them. Everytime the truck warmed up I could hear the solenoids clicking randomly. I got Rodney at Wholesale Transmissions in Australia to help me diagnose - he quickly determined it was outside of the transmission and likely electrical. I started with the harness plugs, but that didn’t solve it. It turned out to be a burned out capacitor on the TCU. Ordered the replacement capacitor and fixed it for 20 cents and 10 minutes of work. Full disclosure, it sat in my shop for a very long time while I figured that out. It’s been perfect ever since.
One non-OEM mod is that I added a secondary fan in front of the AC condenser. I rarely use it, but occasionally sitting in 100+ degree Atlanta traffic I'll flip it on. It’s operated by a toggle switch on the dash.
One other mod that you’ll see in the engine bay photos is an ignition relay. I installed it while chasing an intermittent no start problem. I left it in after I resolved that problem because I like being able to start the motor from the engine bay. If you don’t like it, remove it.
You'll see in underbody photos I replaced the rear spring bump stops with Air Lift bags - I like a level truck when loaded. the orginal bump stops are included.
My rear wiper motor needs to be replaced, I have a new replacement motor that comes with the truck.
Full Maintenance Record Here
This shows everything done to the truck during my ownership. Each entry has a date, mileage and notes on what was done.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1LmC0rrLmVHs4jlonj4uwh7kFnDy-OS7dNrsr7KryzxI/edit?usp=sharing
Exterior
The body and frame are in great shape, no rust - see photos.
I had 4 inch louvers punched into both sides of the hood. The engine bay on an 80 is essentially a box canyon that traps heat - this solves that problem properly. Originally I got them to reduce post driving heat soak, but soon realized that at speeds over 30mph they actively draw hot air out of the engine compartment (Venturi Effect). I have the original hood insulation and it is in decent shape, but not installed.
The wheels have been blasted and powder coated, they look great and sit on fairly new Dick Cepek Trail Country tires - nice balance between highway manners and offroad grip.
I did a single stage repaint and the truck looks great. The paint lays out properly flat and shines well. That said, you can find a few very small defects if you look really hard at just the right angle. I'll show them to you in person if you ask. I painted it because I had removed and resealed the flares and primered under them and also had prmer over and under the louvers from when they were punched. While prepping for paint I removed the "sombrero" Toyota logo and filled the holes. I also did minor fill ins where there were small dings or scrapes. There are no hidden issues. but if you're worried about that, then you should just keep looking. I'm not trying to be unfriendly here, I've put a lot of time and effort into this truck and I'm just not interested in trying to address imaginary issues .
It has a TJM aftermarket bumper a friend gave me when he sold his 80.
While prepping for sale, I steam cleaned some of the under carriage some so folks can get a look at what's what. That said, I didn't go overboard because this is not selling for 50k. If you want to go crazy it appears everything has been well preserved and with time and losts of steam you can make the undercarriage pristine. (But, why?)
Interior
The interior is in good shape - I replaced a few interior parts early on b/c my parts guru guy. said they were getting scarce. It has the blue cloth seats and manual slider/tilt controls so no worries on the stripped gears, etc.. . . No dash cracks, seats are all in good shape with no tears, etc. . . . The driver’s side seat cushion feels like it could use a restuff.
I do not have the third row seats, I bought it this way.
Price
This truck is priced taking into account its condition, the current market and yes, the rebuilt title. If you don’t like the price, I understand and no problem.
Don’t send me offers - we all know you can’t possibly negotiate on something you’ve never seen or driven.
Sale Process
Let’s make this friendly and easy. I won’t hold this truck for anyone, please no weird arrangements or stories. If you’re coming a long distance to see it, I will not sell it out from under you while in transit.
I encourage you to have a PPI done at your expense and my convenience.
Payment has to be in cash or at a bank where funds can be verified. In return you will get a bill of sale and a Georgia title.
I’m happy to answer all reasonable questions.
